Life on an Island: The Orcas Experience

I was recently asked about my experience on Orcas Island...
This was my response:

"Hmm... My life on the island? Wow... You're actually a lot closer to the island than I am, currently. Have you heard of the San Juan Islands? I was on Orcas Island, it's about 3 to 4 hours to the island from Seattle, and that includes the ferry ride from Anacortes to the island. I could plow through a myriad of adjectives describing my experiences, and none would be adequate. It was breathtakingly beautiful and a wondrous place of adventure; a peace I had never experienced, yet there was an overwhelming feeling of being isolated from the world. (I actually enjoyed that feeling for quite some time, as I'm originally from L.A. where "the path less traveled" doesn't exist.) 

"There were times, though, where I became jealous of the water... That probably sounds incredibly odd, but I was so aware of the ebb and flow, the fact that the water surrounded me, and yet could go and be anywhere that body of water touched (as in, other lands) and I was imprisoned by the very water I envied... During the winter, the resident population was between 2000 to 5000 people , so it became a weird melding of the theme-song from the 80's TV show "Cheers" and the Doors song, People are Strange. "People are strange when everybody knows your name."The summer population, including tourists, estimates a much larger number, approximately 60,000 people on any given day. Living on an island allows you to develop close bonds with people that would otherwise not know one another, the lines defining age-appropriate relationships and friendships blur and eventually fade; mortal enemies be warned, there is no escape from one another... 

"There were spectacular views from any area of shoreline, and a mountain that extended above the cloud-level, yet on a clear day you could see Canadian lands... I have quite a few extremely entertaining, shocking (some very extreme experiences), and wonderful stories from my time on that island, and have been back three times since moving... I have a few really good friends there, and immensely enjoy going back for short periods of time."

I don't know exactly how I felt about it two years ago, but that was what my response was after two years of having been away from the island. At the time I was living there, I can remember comparing it to the movie, Wickerman, with Nicolas Cage... Creepy. Yet, there were so many positive experiences and bonds that were formed, that I cannot exactly regret my time there, regardless of what occurred on that rock... It is my experience, and I grew from those things that I was exposed to, and that I experienced. They are my memories.

Ferry to Lopez Island Collides with Sailboat

When first hearing of the story, it was tempting to blame it on the likelyhood of truth in one of the sayings of the islands: "It's a drinking island with a ferry problem." Who's to say exactly why the 60-something man was boating in the shipping lane, but that was definitely the reason his boat, the Hyak, was struck by the ferry on Friday the 13th, September 2013.

The Islands' Sounder reports on the story in more detail, here.

Being Lost on Orcas Island

First time on Orcas Island? One can only assume that you arrived via ferry, then followed a seemingly endless line of cars through the several miles of forest and farmlands on the way to Eastsound, the main town on Orcas Island.

Within about 20 minutes, you'll pass fields, horses, glittering tree decorations, several glimpses of Indian Island, and eventually find yourself at a fork in the road, presenting you with two options: Go straight; go right... The latter is a tempting option, given the view of the waters of Eastsound. Quite a conundrum as a newcomer...

Going straight would most likely lead to following a caravan of locals who ventured off the island in search of chain groceries and bulk shopping... Or, you could turn right, following the general flow of the road into town. You're not lost yet, and although it's confusing, it's a small island, and we forgive you... It can be quite overwhelming when you first arrive, but fret not. Even if you find yourself momentarily lost, all roads lead to town... As long as you're traveling in the right direction.

Every once in a while, you'll find a random sign post, seemingly legitimate, but cleverly planned to steer you into the scenic labyrinth of roads through forests and along beaches, only to end up right where you started. But then there are the complicated directions local youth will give you, just so they can watch you pull up a short time later, confused and feeling as though you've been through a disorienting maze of the island's roads. Although most people are kind enough to direct you to your intended destination, beware of the young, bored and quite probably inebriated islanders... They have not much else to do but direct you in a scenic square around the town, but never actually driving through town... Don't worry if this happens, you'll pass them again, perhaps on the second pass they'll give you better directions.

Ask directions? Sure, as long as the source is mature enough to steer you in the right direction. But come across someone with a sense of humor appreciated by a select few and you may find yourself looking for a road along which you are supposed to see two cows standing behind a fence with three horses on the other side, at which point, you are to count three driveways and turn to the right. Can't find the cows? There are plenty of cows and horses, but how could you miss the cows next to the horses? Suddenly, you find yourself in very place that you started... you haven't really gone anywhere at all. This can be interesting if you've got nothing else to do, but for those seeking to arrive at their specific destination, it could get a bit frustrating.

In other words, choose your directional resources wisely. Unless of course, you're feeling adventurous. In that case, sure... go ahead. Ask that 14-yr old kid standing in front of the market because that kid has nothing better to do than steer tourists in circles.

Just so you know, the gas station near town closes at 10 p.m. Don't take your chances after nine o'clock. After a certain time of night, there are even adults that will entertain themselves at your expense. Don't worry, though.... you'll get a great tour of the views of Orcas Island. In fact, the sights are worth getting lost, just so you can see them.

Skip the directions... just head out on any road. If you get lost, turn around. The island really isn't that big. Have fun, enjoy the sights, and who knows? You may just find yourself giving tourists bogus directions, just so you can share with them the beautiful places and majestic sights you experienced while being lost on Orcas Island.

Opportunities to Buy, Sell, Trade on Orcas Island and San Juan Islands

We all know how difficult it can be to connect with the community to buy or sell things, and even harder to find people to barter with on the islands. Craigslist just doesn't stretch out far enough, and the postings within the San Juan islands are sparse... Yard sales are great, but with short summers and months of rain and cold weather, outdoor selling is forced to remain an annual affair. But with so many people gravitating towards Facebook to stay connected, I'm not surprised that someone has come up with a brilliant way to use it to bring us all together in one place to buy, sell, and trade - for free!

Alex Huppenthal, of the San Juan Islands, created the Facebook group San Juan Islands Buy, Sell, Trade. Since it's creation, there have been outdoor events, and a whirlwind of buying, selling, and trading going on within the islands communities. The group membership has quickly grown and is flourishing with a current membership of 2,485 Facebook users! What a great place to connect with the people in your community! The group is free to join, it's free to post, and anyone is welcome.

The Three-Year Local Trap

Some small towns are tourist traps, coercing visitors into spending unwisely and enticing them to come again soon. Here on Orcas, things may seem to be as they are in any small town, but as you settle in, you begin to notice that things are more than just a little different.

The beauty beckons visitors from near and far, with the island's serene beaches, forested shorelines, and panoramic views that make you feels as if you're on top of the world. But beneath the surface of the local beauty is a trap that few see coming - or ignore the signs of danger as a sailor allows the drawing suction of a siren's mystic song to carry him off to sea.

The people seem so inviting and friendly, waving to one another as they pass on the streets, passing smiles back and forth in local shops. People want to stay, but misunderstand the process of becoming a local - and the impending doom and dire consequences of giving in to their desires of living in such a place as Orcas Island. The unwritten rules of becoming a local islander require at least a three-year extended stay. But when you begin to take a closer and more intimate look into the lives of the people here, it becomes more apparent that the locals are... well, for lack of a better phrase - a little strange. Some are even deserving of a grander title, such as insane. Somewhere along their journey to becoming a local - they seem to have lost their minds.

Now, I'm sure most people didn't start off that way, or at least I like to hope they didn't. While some people seem perfectly normal by societal standards, others just don't quite seem to establish a life of normalcy on the island, but can't seem to bring themselves to leave, either. The draw here is intense, and the desire to leave becomes a passing thought as time draws you further into the island's hypnotic energy. By the time you realize you've endured three full years here, earning you an honorary local badge, you might not even notice that you, too - have lost your mind somewhere on Orcas Island.

The Minds of the Mutually Self Serving

I'm sure that when Orcas Island developed it's reputation for being such a wonderful place to grow up - it probably was. But something entirely different seems to be happening here now, and whether or not these things are occurring on the mainland isn't known to us here on the island, because . . . well, we're on an island.

While Orcas is definitely a place with an undeniable natural beauty, it is also has a strange draw to it, while at the same time - it creates a feeling that you just want to get away, but can't. The truth is, here on Orcas, boredom and desperation collide. The result is a vile and disgusting revelation of the minds of humans that are truly bored. Let's face it, this isn't Gilligan's Island. While we may have a similar combination of opinionated rich folks, the famous and selfishly materialistic, the educated thinkers, the hardworking rough-hands, and even simple-minded do-gooders, we all seem to share a mutual feeling of being stranded; yet, you just don't get the impression that everyone is working together - or even towards the same purpose. Let me rephrase that: It quickly becomes apparent that everyone DOES seem to be working towards exactly the same purpose: To serve "self".

Is There Nothing to Do on Orcas Island?

Tourists arrive on the island excited and ready for an adventure... But for those of us who live here, the general consensus is that there's nothing to do on Orcas Island. While many of the locals try to entertain themselves by saying that it all depends on what you enjoy doing, most people find themselves without much to do in the evenings, other than perhaps a meal out... And yet, the island offers all the indulgences one could seek, if they knew just where to look for such experiences.

There is simply no comparison between what people do in the big city, and what one could encounter on Orcas Island. There really isn't much to do on this island, except maybe the three things people do most often... Drink, do drugs, and have sex. Usually in that order. It's what so many people do with their winters, although none of it warms anyone up enough to stop complaining about the temperature.

To be quite honest, Orcas Island has many of the modern conveniences of most middle-American towns... You can go to the gym, get a tan or a beehive at the salon, play a few rounds of golf, have one of several beers on tap, join a local sewing circle, or whatever floats your boat. Which reminds me, there are plenty of boating enthusiasts, kayaking groups, and yacht clubs to join, as well.

For the kids, Orcas offers a movie theater playing a new movie every weekend - or sometimes even two. There are DVD rentals, the Fun House, roller skating on Saturdays, and of course - school sports. But there are a whole breed of kids who enjoy the dark side of the island. Trouble is something the kids of Orcas Island know all too well. If you get to know the kids of Orcas, you'll find a dark underworld of drinking, drugs, and random sex acts with anyone willing. By the time the teenage years are gone, so is their innocence.
Most of them have a healthy attitude about life on the island. They say there are the good kids, but the bad kids, it has been said, are really bad. The same could be said for the adults inhabiting the island, seeing as how there isn't much in the way of entertainment. But as they say, it's all about what you enjoy doing. Poker on Sundays or Thursdays, go see the current show at the performing arts center, or maybe just take a walk along one of the many local trails. There are a lot of beautiful places to go, and quite a few things to do here on the island. Just don't be too quick to let people in - for the walls hear and the floors talk. This sure isn't Vegas, so remember this: what happens on Orcas is everyone's business.